Klaus Thymann: “The truth has become optional"

Detained in Uganda documenting Rwenzori's melting glaciers

Hiya 🤗

I got in touch with Danish photojournalist Klaus Thymann after reading about his five-day detention in Uganda. Was curious to know what happened - and how he survived FIVE days in this tiny, hot cell with two others - so I asked him to come and talk to the NUJ.

Klaus shared this six-square-metre cell with two people. Recess on the left was the loo, so it stank of piss with the heat. Photo: Klaus Thymann

Before the talk, a colleague sent me this article on how ‘God is about to become homeless.’ “Klaus is quite the character…” He is - fingers in lots of pies and doing inspiring work. Mapping the mountain to make the invisible visible, and help the locals plan for an uncertain future.

For the Bakonzo people who live in the Rwenzori Mountains, the cultural significance is hard to overestimate as their god, Kitasamba, lives in the ice. That means God is about to become homeless. I’m not sure this has ever happened before – that we humans have destroyed the home of God.

Not heard it put like that before - a powerful image. It got me thinking about the emotional impact of climate change on communities, not something we hear much about.

Be amazing to talk to the Bakonzo tribe about it and see how they’ve adapted to living on steep mountain slopes at high altitude.

Klaus joined us online from Copenhagen…

In June, he travelled to the Rwenzori National Park to report on the disappearing glaciers and community - a place he cares about deeply. This would’ve been his been his sixth expedition there, in collaboration with the Ugandan Wildlife Authority (UWA).

UWA is the government agency managing the national park, a UNESCO World Heritage site on the Uganda/DRC border.

He was met at the park by seven, armed UWA rangers and told “it will not end well” if he tried to enter. When he later met with UWA to talk about his permit, he was arrested without explanation and held in custody for FIVE days with no charges – a violation of Uganda’s constitution and UN human rights.

Sat on a chair in the middle of a room, surrounded by 12-14 people who interrogated him about the cameras previously set up to monitor the glaciers. Suspicions of unauthorised data collection and equipment.

Being locked up in a tiny, hot cell with mosquitoes was physically hard and stressful - he couldn’t lie down. He focused on mundane things - drinking enough water, using wipes - and not getting sick.

After much legal wrangling, he was eventually released without charge on 3 July.

Interesting that his arrest happened a couple of days after Uganda’s army chief Gen Muhoozi Kainerugaba ordered a shutdown of some of the country’s top indie media outlets, posting on X:

In Uganda, I DO NOT believe in a free press!

The press should be guided by cadres of the revolution.

BBC Africa posted about it. Who gets to decide when independent media can operate?

Before he was arrested, Klaus asked the UNESCO Safety for Journalists team for support, knowing he was at risk. Instead of helping or replying, he believes they sent his “PLEASE HELP!” email to UWA (this was the only piece of evidence shared with him, his counsellor and lawyer).

“Why was my cry for help leaked?” Something UNESCO denies.

London Freelance: What lessons did you learn?

KT: You have to be very careful to do it all by the book.

Before the trip, he sent all his paperwork to a secure server and made copies – it’s important to document everything.

He mentioned issues with WhatsApp security – your IP address can be revealed. Someone might not know what is said but they can see who said it. You can update the Settings (‘protect IP address in calls’ and ‘disable link previews’). Reduces your call quality, though.

Meta can still log your activity, so you’d have to run a VPN. Or just use Signal - far less hassle!

London Freelance: When will you get your life back?

KT: I didn’t lose my life. My main concern is my loss of freedom – and being able to continue my work in Uganda.

Rwenzori’s ‘Mountains of the Moon’. They look like ants!

What a mad story. I’m glad he’s back home safely and had help from the NUJ, IFJ and CPJ. Definitely worth a formal complaint – it’s important that UNESCO and UWA are held to account.

Something he said on the phone stuck with me:

The truth has become optional. It’s an opt-in. What do we do about that?

He’s been left with a huge legal bill so asked us to share this fundraiser “to help me not go bankrupt right now.” 🙏

Stay cool, enjoy the reads!

Nika xo

PS I keep seeing articles about getting through the summer holidays on a budget. I’ve not booked anything yet as it’s been so hot here - staying cool on the coast and doing day trips.

I’d love to take Julieta to see the total eclipse in Spain so am keeping an eye out for last-minute deals - even the hostels have hiked up their prices.