“Hi mate, I need your advice. What would you pay for a knock-off Rolex?
“I was thinking 40 euro. Is that about right?” Bit more banter then he hung up. “I’ll take it.” He crammed a wad of notes into Mr T’s hand and squeezed it shut. Lovely to see Mr T’s face light up. He patted his new friend on the shoulder, shook his hand and gave him the watch.
This little exchange made my day so I said hello and told him so. Love a Scouse accent. We’d popped into one of the many beach bars - chiringuitos - dotted along Playa de Palma to escape the midday heat.
“They’re just trying to make a living too.” Gavin was also in Mallorca for the eclipse. He turned 50 this year and this was his fourth trip to celebrate. “I’m doing ok!” He never goes back to the same place. “There’s too much world to see!” I agree.
We spent the next hour talking all things travel - lots of funny stories. Sold me on the Caribbean cruise. I love the idea of watching the sunrise on a different island every day. Good value for what you get.
He’ll be in Malaga to watch the ‘eclipse of the century’ next year (Aug 2) as will we. Will book it soon.
Spain and Morocco - 3-4 mins totality. Diehards need to head to Egypt for the full SIX mins. Be awesome but I can’t cope with the desert heat. Spain is enough - it punches you in the face when you step outside.
Mr T walked by again, nodded and waved at Gavin. “Hey, Mr T!”
Eclipse night in Mallorca
So glad I made the effort to go - it was awesome.
The police put roadblocks along the beach in S’Arenal to contain the crowds so we walked southeast for a better view (the mountains block the horizon). There’s a walking / cycling path behind the surf club with stunning views on both sides - hidden coves and modernist villas overlooking the bay.
Found a good spot just past Mirador Son Verí Nou. Loads of people but plenty of room. Cool couple sat on their chairs, sipping vino and watching the sun go down. Quite the fashion show! Foil blankets and hats, t-shirts, eclipse glasses layered over sunglasses.
Lots of boats bobbing about below and a police helicopter circling (what a view!).
Glad we saw it from here rather than on a boat as you can look up and down. Feel the earth, smell the soil - and it’s free ;) People were charging crazy money for boats. Everybody cheered when totality hit. “Bellissimo!” Gives you goosebumps!
Couldn’t tell if the birds went quiet - too noisy, but I got bitten by an ant so I reckon they were freaking out.
“Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.” — beat poet Gary Snyder.
Tried my best to capture it for you while experiencing it - some pics and video below.
I was telling Florian the phlebotomist all about it this week - went to get my bloods done at hospital. He’s Iranian and spends a lot of time in Spain. He doesn’t like Mallorca. “It’s not the real Spanish. The people aren’t the same.”
His favourite city is Valencia - loves the modernist buildings and “the park that goes on and on” (just had a look - Turia Garden or ‘El Rio’ the river as the locals call it). About five miles through the city centre.
Go a few streets back to find the authentic tapas bars where everyone’s welcome. Home-made food and music. (I think he was trying to take my mind off the needle as no blood was coming out. Food helps ;)
I love the mix of modernist and Moorish in Spain too - feels grounding and progressive. I felt light, happy and carefree in Mallorca.
Am trying to hang on to the vibes now I’m back home. How do you do it?
Shopping in Lidl (first thing I do when I arrive, stock up on essentials). Eating my deli bits (olive oil, almond jam & biscuits). Spraying on Soltan. Wearing the dress I bought. Listening to sound recordings. Taking time to myself to think about it all.
And plotting my next adventure! I’m in York this week to help Julieta move into her new house. Might do a cheeky trip to Valencia - will still be hot in Sep/Oct and the sea is warm enough for swimming. I’m really missing that - the water was so warm and healing.
If you’re local or have been, send me your recs to add to my map!
Nika 🍸🫒